A part must be cleaned before it can be anodized (or re-anodized).
Gloves, goggles, and cover-ups must be worn at all times.
ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. DO NOT ADD WATER TO ACID.
ONLY ALUMINUM CAN BE IN THE ACID TANK, NO OTHER METALS SHOULD TOUCH THE ACID.
DO NOT BREATHE THE FUMES.
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT ALLOW THE CATHODE TO TOUCH THE ANODE.
Hang the part on aluminum wire so that it hangs freely and does not touch the container or the cathode.
Plan out your setup in the black plastic container (i.e. where the part and cathode are going to be to avoid contact and ensuring that no metal touches the container sides).
Calculate the anodizing duration using the following rule: 1-hour duration at 12 AMPS/SQUARE-FOOT (ASF).
This means that an object that has a surface area of 1 square foot will take an hour to anodize at a current of 12 amps. If your part is 2 square feet, the current density is 6 ASF at 12 amps and will take 2 hours to anodize. Try to avoid increasing the current past 12 amps, but do not allow the current density to drop below 6 ASF.
Connect the negative terminal of the power supply to the screw in the cathode.
Connect the positive terminal of the power supply to the wire holding the part.
Mix together a solution of 1 part sulfuric acid to 4 parts DI water in the black plastic containers by ALWAYS ADDING ACID to the water. The solution will heat up with the addition of the acid.
Put setup in sulfuric acid.
Turn on the power supply and wait for the calculated duration time.
This takes a while, so while the part is anodizing, you can prepare for the dying procdure.
Rinse the part in the DI water making sure to remove all of the acid. Repeat rinsing as many times as needed.
DO NOT LET THE PART DRY BETWEEN TANKS. THEREFORE, WHILE RINSING, PREPARE FOR THE NEXT STEP.
Keep all chemicals separate from one another.
